Alaskan king crab, with hearts of palm, avocado purée, and grapefruit.
Walking through the doors of Andiron Steak & Sea, you don’t feel like you’re in the mega-shopping/dining/entertainment complex Downtown Summerlin. In fact, you don’t feel like you’re in Summerlin at all—or just about any other Las Vegas suburb. The place has an elegance that our valley usually reserves for the Strip. It’s bathed in white, from its white marble bar to the dining room’s white brick columns to the curtains, tablecloths, and wooden shutters. But that brightness is tempered by seductive touches, like black wallpaper emblazoned with bright inviting flowers and steak knives inlaid with mother-of-pearl.
The décor ref lects the personality of Andiron cofounder Elizabeth Blau, who helped shape haute cuisine on the Strip when she created the restaurant programs at Bellagio, Wynn Las Vegas, and Encore. While her husband, veteran fine-dining chef Kim Canteenwalla, runs the kitchen, Blau is most responsible for the restaurant’s look. She recalls telling interior designer Thomas Schlesser, “Las Vegas needs another pure steakhouse like a hole in the head…. I want to envision this as something more female-friendly. So I want you to envision a steakhouse at the beach.”
Blau’s tastes, which tend to be lighter and more playful than those of her husband, are also apparent in the food. The menu ventures far beyond premium cuts of beef, such as grass-fed filets, dry-aged New York strips, rib-eye caps, and tomahawk chops for two. There’s also a raw bar that, in addition to shellfish platters and shrimp cocktails, offers yellowtail crudo and sea urchin toast. Lighter appetites will also enjoy creatively cooked seafood and vegetarian dishes, such as whole branzino and farro risotto, and playful smaller plates, like bacon-wrapped matzo balls and a mac-and-cheese waffle.
Andiron, Blau says, gave her and Canteenwalla “a chance to design a signature restaurant.” And based on the initial response (the place is regularly packed), they’ve succeeded. 1720 Festival Plaza Dr., 702-685-8002