By John Curtas | October 13, 2016 | Food & Drink
Vegas and seafood may have a checkered past, but thanks to, well, lots of money, you can now relish exotic dishes here you can’t even find in many seaside restaurants.
Resembling more of a tower than a patty, Emeril Lagasse’s jumbo lump beauty is an architectural marvel—big, buttery chunks of Maryland Blue suspended by the merest wisp of filler, capped with crunchy bread crumbs, and served with either a classic, coat-your-arteries remoulade or a lighter, piquant relish in the warmer months. The fun comes in toppling that structure to reveal an almost disconcerting amount of plump crustacean within. MGM Grand, 702-891-7374
How red can seafood get? How delicious can shrimp be? These are two of the questions that will be answered by your first bite of these Portuguese beauties. The third will be: How do I properly suck the head of a decapod? Why, with a dollop of sherry poured into the decapitated space, of course! The staff will happily guide you, and the impromptu shot of bisque you create will be a revelation in shrimp intensity. Cosmopolitan, 702-698-7930
Urbane, theatrical, and expensive, Mr. Chow may be the perfect embodiment of the Strip’s culinary resurgence since the great recession. Its rice wine-steamed Dover sole might be Chinese fish at its most understated and elegant. The English and French may do wonderful things with this dense, cold-water swimmer, but steaming it brings out a delicate, velvety smoothness that the Chinese prize above all else. All it takes is a little soy sauce and some bits of green garnish to complete a fish dish fit for the gods. Caesars Palace, 702-731-7888
Genichi Mizoguchi, or Gen-san to his regulars, has single-handedly turned Spring Mountain Road into a mecca for serious sushi hounds. First at Kabuto and now at Yui—his own restaurant—he features only the best fish from Japan or the West Coast, each variety sliced and formed into the most ethereal combination of fish on rice that was ever popped into one’s mouth. This is minimalist, purist sushi, but whatever he’s slicing (and every night there are over a dozen featured species), it will be the best you can get this far east of the Far East. 3460 Arville St., 702-202-2408
PhotograPhy by Jon Estrada/Las VEgas WEEkLy (sushi); sEth oLEnick (MiLos); christoPhEr dEVargas (crab cakE); courtEsy of Mr. choW (Mr. choW)