The finest watchmakers in the world not only know haute horlogerie, but also haute joaillerie, a centuries-old tradition originated by well-to-do ladies. As men stuck with pocket watches, fashionable women started adding a small clock face to their diamond bracelets. Slowly, gem-setters and goldsmiths began to combine their crafts with that of clockmakers. To this day, no other timepiece in the world stands out as brilliantly as the diamond watch.
In the early days, watch diamonds were generally round and prong-set on the case. When pocket clocks evolved into wristwatches, designs became more extravagant, and gems began appearing on timepieces in greater detail. As watchmakers developed individual styles, some brands even created their own setting techniques. Chief among them is the invisible setting, wherein gemstones are cut in an interlocking manner. Other popular jewel settings include pavé (a brick-like, paved look) and channel (neat rows between two tracks of metal). The more elaborate jeweled timepieces can take thousands of hours to set—resulting in objects of art that not only track the time, but offer stunning beauty and a promise of value for generations to come.
FROM LEFT: A fitting star of any watch or bracelet collection, this 18k white-gold Signature 7 beauty ($322,400) from Harry Winston is set with 428 diamonds weighing 38.12 carats. Each link is individually sculpted and assembled by hand for ultimate flexibility. Crystals, CityCenter, 702-262-0001
Count down to midnight in style with Patek Philippe’s Twenty-four, Ref 4908/50G ($156,200), in 18k white gold. The glittering watch case and dial are set with 307 diamonds and the bracelet is set with 1,128 flawless Top Wesselton diamonds. Wynn & Co. Jewelry, Wynn Las Vegas, 702-770-3520
Bulgari’s Assioma D watch ($102,000) adds hefty sparkle to any elegant holiday wear, crafted in 18k white gold with a case, dial, and bracelet set with hundreds of round brilliant diamonds weighing 6.25 carats. Crystals, CityCenter, 702-583-4747
