Rat Pack Era Elegance at The Barrymore
by courtney seard
The Barrymore restaurant, with its “old-school” vibe, is fittingly tucked inside The Royal Resort—the retro boutique hotel just north of Wynn. After a splashy grand opening, the eatery is picking up steam, thanks to owner Billy Richardson, of Holstein’s fame. The décor at this intimate 1,400 square-foot restaurant is a nostalgic mixture of creams, chocolate, and Carolina blue that provides the ambiance of a quintessential old-fashioned Vegas dining room. Every detail, from the attentive servers in white jackets to the exceptional food and drinks, conjures images of the splendid service and sophisticated charm that made everyone feel like a high roller during the days of vintage Vegas.
Barrymore’s menu was created by Richardson’s partner at Holstein’s, executive chef Anthony Meidenbauer. “We combined contemporary American cuisine with a fun, old-school spin,” Meidenbauer says. “We really paid homage to the old classic Vegas dishes, such as oysters Rockefeller, grilled octopus, and vitello tonnato veal loin, a dish you almost don’t see anymore but is very classic and used to be done a lot.” Lunch offers an array of tantalizing choices, including the Barrymore classic burger, the California turkey burger, and a fun twist on the classic Cuban lomo de cerdo, a delicious roasted pork loin with manchego cheese and garlic aioli, all on a toasted baguette with grilled green chili pepper. The restaurant’s most popular item is on the dinner menu: pan-seared diver scallops, served surf-and-turf style.
The exceptional cocktail list would have made even the Rat Pack proud. “The Barrymore cocktail is a spin on the Manhattan, combining Gentleman Jack, blood orange liqueur, and orange marmalade with a splash of vermouth,” Meidenbauer says. The Bloody Mary bar at brunch offers unlimited pours of three variations on the classic, with vodkas infused with jalapeño-cilantro, beef brisket, or mushroom truffle to choose from. You’ll also find the classic Old Fashioned cocktail served the “proper way,” he adds. “You won’t find froufrou fruity drinks.” We’ll certainly toast to that. The Royal Resort, 99 Convention Center Dr., 702- 407-5303
photography by leila navidi