The triathlon of game: marmitte at Guy Savoy, with duck, squab, and pheasant

 
  Chef Mike Minor at Border Grill
 

With hunting season in full swing, it’s time to let your palate out for a prowl to try the many game dishes making their way onto top menus around town. The hearty flavor of game makes it a perfect dish to enjoy as the temperatures drop. And whether you prefer beef, pork, or poultry, there is a game counterpart to satisfy any primal craving.

Guy Savoy seasonally offers a menu that showcases various types of game entrées. When forced to choose his favorite from the menu, executive chef Mathieu Chartron deemed marmitte the winner. “It’s a combination of three game plus foie gras,” he says. “So you get to try many types of game in one dish.” The indulgent entrée of wild duck, squab, and pheasant cooked together on a bed of cabbage features wild mushrooms and diced foie gras inside an iron cast that has been sealed with bread dough to keep the flavors inside. It exudes an earthy richness perfect for a cold winter evening.

The Wild Side of Game
“Game” is defined as any wild species of animals and birds. However, if the game originates in the US, by regulation it must be farmed or ranch-raised. Some exceptions exist of truly wild game imported from abroad, but that is still subject to rigorous inspection upon arrival. Since the flavor of the animal is a product of its diet and how it was killed and aged, this distinction is huge in the world of five-star dining. Ranch-raised “wild” game lives a life closer to that of an actual wild animal, roaming acres of land foraging for its own food. Chartron of Guy Savoy Restaurant explains, “Wild game will have more flavor and body than farm-raised.”

Venison could be the dish for anyone who craves a dry-aged porterhouse for comfort food. It is a generic term for any red meat that comes from an animal within the deer and antelope family, including animal such as caribou, pronghorn, and elk. The meat is firmer and leaner, as game animals tend to be more active and have a diet consisting of berries and flora, which can result in a dry, tough piece of meat if not prepared correctly. Chefs recommend eating it cooked to no more than medium rare. Often described as “gamey” in taste, all agree that there really is no direct comparison for the flavor. “Game stands apart from the rest of the meat people are used to,” Chartron says. Border Grill’s executive chef Mike Minor adds, “It is its own flavor, its own thing. You cannot make a comparison.” Game is a foundation of Latin cuisine, so he finds it easy to incorporate it into his menu. He introduces it to his diners in a familiar preparation: an enchilada. The venison meat, seasoned with Mexican oregano, thyme, chili, and paprika for a kick, is slow-cooked in a savory mole at a low temperature for four to five hours. Then it is diced, mixed with Oaxacan string cheese for moisture, and rolled. “It is the perfect harmony of regional Mexican cuisine, ” he says.

The Italians are known for using wild boar in traditional dishes. Executive chef Luciano Pellegrini at Valentino describes eating boar as akin to “eating the leanest cut of pork with a gamey flavor.” Since boar has a tendency to be a little dry, he marinates, pan roasts, and then braises the meat until fork tender for his wild boar ragu. He pairs the rich sauce with pappardelle or polenta.

For the amateur chefs itching to try this at home, the rules for ensuring a winning dish until you’ve got your game down are simple: Research what you’re cooking before you start, season it well, and don’t overcook it. A game ragu, or an all-forgiving braise, is the easiest for a neophyte game cook, suggests chef Pellegrini. Chef Minor recommends doing a buffalo chili with plenty of spices: “Since the meat is easy to find, the spice will tone down the gaminess until the home cook is used to it, and there is less chance of overcooking it.”

The last piece of the puzzle? Wine, of course. Game meats beg for bold, complex wines that can stand up to their robust flavor, but it gets even more specific. The hearty fruit and spice of a Zinfandel will match well with most game, while a hearty Italian red pairs specifically with wild boar. A Brunello or Barolo will do, too, but chef Pellegrini’s favorite is a powerful, highly tannic Amarone. White meats, like pheasant and rabbit, play perfectly with a light red such as a Pinot Noir or with full-bodied white wines. For wild duck, a red-white meat, Phillip Park, sommelier of Guy Savoy, recommends an earthy Burgundy.

So go ahead and give game a shot. You may find that you feel quite at home on the range.